Perfumum. I profumi della Storia
The perfume is the subject of a luxury that among all it is the most ephemeral (Plinio il vecchio, Storia Naturale, XIII, 4)
Palazzo Madama introduces, from on February 15 to May 21 2018, the show Perfumum. I profumi della Storia (Perfumum. The perfumes of the History). A story on the evolution and the plurality of the meanings of the perfume from the Greek antiquity and Roman to the the Twentieth Century, seen across more than two hundred exposed objects among oreficerie, glasses, porcelains, affiches and scientific essays.
The exposure, taken care of by Cristina Maritano, conservative of Palazzo Madama, and prepared in the Sala Atelier, introduces belonging objects to the collections of Palazzo Madama and numerous loans coming from museums and Turinese institutions as the MAO Museo of Oriental art, the Egyptian Museum, the Museum of Antiquity, the National Library, the Library Guareschi of the Department of Science and Technology of the Medicine. Important also the contribution of national reality as the National Museum of the Bargello, Galleries of the Offices, the Museum Bardini and the Gallery Cut-off Bardini in Florence and the Museum of Sant'Agostino in Genoa. Fundamental also the collaboration with the Musée International de la Parfumerie di Grasse (France) that, together to a precious selection of works, has made available the multimedial apparatuses on the techniques of the perfumery. The contribution of many private collectors has finally, allowed to assemble ample selection bottles belonged to the Twentieth Century.
To completion of the show, the Turinese cultural association Per Fumum, founded by Roberta Conzato and Roberto Drago, organizes a review of international meetings on the culture of the sense of smell it turns to the whole world of the impassioned ones of the perfumery. From the presentation of historical perfumes of the Osmothèque of Versailles, to the meeting with creative of perfumes recognized to international level, thin to tied up appointments to the world food & beverage. The meetings will be held 16, 17, 18 February and 7 and April 8th 2018 near Palazzo Madama and other locations.
On the occasion of the show, finally, the creator of fragrances Luca Maffei, will create some odor-perfumes inspiring himself to the historical collections of the museum of the Roman, medieval, Renaissance and Baroque period that will be spread in the rooms of the building.
The desire to hold back the perfumes, to preserve them and to enjoy of their fragrance accompanies the history of the man from the antiquity to nowdays. The expositive way introduces historical excursus beginning from the civilizations Egyptian and Greek-Roman that, on the escort of preceding traditions, assign manifold meanings to the perfume: from symbol of the immortality, in partnership to the divinity, to tool of hygiene, care of the body and seduction.
In Europe of the first Middle Ages, submitted to the bump of the barbaric invasions, the testimonies of use of scented substances are rare out of the sacred sphere. It survives nevertheless the protective conception and therapeutics of the perfume, as testified in show by the precious bulla with amethysts set coming from the Desana’s gotic treasure.
The use of perfumes to contact with the body with function of protection towards illnesses is attested later in the pommes de musc frequently quoted in the inventories of the medieval castles as the rare Fifteenth-century example in gilded silver in loan from the Museum of Sant'Agostino in Genoa, that preserve still the nutmeg to its inside.
The Islamic civilization, that inherits and it preserves the to know about the ancient world, develops and innovates the culture of the perfume Greek fret and Roman, shutter and Byzantine, introducing important technological conquests, as the improvement of the art of the distillation completed by Avicenna. In show some perfume flasks of Ottoman art, in brass geminato, in wood of rose and in maiolica and glass.
The Renaissance age sees the progressive laicizzazione of the meanings of the perfume, whose use him ago wider and articulated near the more elevated social classes. The ancient essays circulate thanks to the editions to press, new cookbooks that propose the individual manufacture of the perfumes bloom, the alcoholic perfumery develops him. It spreads in Europe the widespread fashion in the Italian courts to also perfume besides the body the accessories of clothing, especially in skin, and to wear containers for perfumes of extraordinary refinement as the bottle in agate with fitting in gold, rubies and enamel, coming from the Museo degli Argenti of Palazzo Pitti, perhaps a gift of Caterina dei Medici, to which the export of the Italian fashion of the perfumes is owed in France.
From Seventeenth Century, the supremacy in the field of the production of the perfumes is incontestably up to France. New fragrances are born, more and more you direct toward the floral notes and to read, preserved in bottles in glass or porcelain, or diffused in the environments thanks to pot-pourri and bruciaprofumi.
The show finally offers a panning around Twentieth Century graces to the loans coming from collections deprived that you/they have allowed to enrich the expositive way with an ample dollied of bottles, among which detach those created by René Lalique for François Coty, of Baccarat for Guerlain, but also the exceptional Arpèges of Jeanne Lavin, Shocking of Hilt Schiaparelli, Christian's Dior Diorissimo. They complete the exposure a selection of labels and manifestos of manufacturing houses of perfumes among Eight hundred and Nine hundred.
Catalog edited by Silvana Editoriale.